Once again, we've covered a good deal of territory, both literally and figuratively, since I last wrote. We traveled from Chiang Mai to Mae Sot by aircon bus, arrived and found a wide range of tasty dinner options, slept well and piled into our transport to the village the next morning. It was fun for me to observe the students' reaction to our arrival in the village -- though they had had some experience in a Thai village while staying at Wan Pen's, it was not like where we are now. Even though this village does have electricity (and WiFi!), the buildings are quite basic; the kids are sleeping on mats on concrete floors; the food is very simple (but delicious); the orphans (and mangy puppies) are great playmates; and there are several volunteers who are also helping, making for great conversations -- students, primarily, from both the nearby Engineering School in the refugee camp, from Norway, from Stanford University (! one of whom is best friends with Claire Nollman's cousin; another of whom lived last year across the hall from my niece Elyse -- amazing "small world" stuff!).
All are engaged in helping the fellow who founded the orphanage (for Karen children, most of them also refugees) improve the property and begin construction on the job training center he will establish to help these kids continue their education after primary school. They all go to either the local Thai school, or one set up just for Karen people, neither of which offers terrific education, though the staff here helps the kids with homework, preparing for exams, etc. They also have a music program (Robin was delighted to see a piano! and Joe/Reuben/Dylan/Robert are enjoying playing some guitar, some drums -- great way to connect with the kids here).
This afternoon we'll do some painting; tomorrow we'll be clearing brush and helping with the construction of the first building to go up -- the college group, who was here right before us, put in the wires to bring electricity to the site (approx. 2 kilometers of evenly-spaced poles with the wires attached), and cleared brush from about half the 4-acre site. We're also spending plenty of time with the orphans, who range in age from 2 to 17. I'm not sure what else we'll be doing, but whatever will be helpful... It's great to finally have a chance to GIVE as opposed to TAKE -- most of our time to date has been on the receiving end, and it's definitely time to create some balance to that process of "getting." All part of the process of being travelers, not tourists; givers as much as takers...
I do have a collection of short quotes garnered from journal entries I asked the students to write, soon after their arrival in Thailand. Much has happened since then (they wrote right before leaving Wan Pen's), but here is what most of them had to say in response to a request for "First Impressions: Thailand"
- I wish all people and all places were this beautiful. The hills are spiky and jagged, sticking out of fertile valleys to offer the perfect sunrise.
- I can't put my finger on it yet, but the rice paddies, bamboo, and thatched roofs, among temples and other buildings, give this place a certain wonder, combining old with the new.
- incredibly nice and gentle people; food to die for; a place I would return to again and again; limitedly modernized, which is why I like it; beautifully intricate temples; Thailand is a perfect example of how powerful an inspiration religion can be. (and after - for a few of them - a VERY active day at Wan Pen's): Dinner had never tasted better after an exhausting day like that, and I'm sure my bed will feel like clouds evaporated from fresh goat's milk.
- A smile is always appreciated and reciprocated.... I wish my mom was here; she'd love it.
- Surprisingly, being in Thailand only makes me ponder about India more than when I was in the States. I keep wondering what it will be like, similar or wholly different from Thailand? Will I like it as much?
- The heat of the day dissipates, leaving an all-encompassing range of plants and animals to the sweet embrace of twilight. Words fail to describe what I've seen, no felt here, a mixture of emotions as rich and varied as the ingredients of Wan Pen's organic Phad Thai; as bustling, foreign and yet somehow comforting as Bangkok's markets. I am intrigued, in awe of a country I cannot begin to say I understand. I feel as if I have walked into another world, as contrived as it may sound, and I love it.
- Very different from home; outdoor markets with live fish, eels, turtles and frogs; no speed limit; stray dogs and cats everywhere eager to share their fleas; houses put together of scraps of metal roofing next to brand new buildings
- Thailand is: green grass, red soil, skies more beautiful than I would've realized. Thailand is like the weather, constantly changing from calm to chaotic. Thailand is a teacher hard to deal with, but I know I will look back in fond memory. Thailand is a treasure chest, endlessly deep in its subtle fortunes. Thailand is a home. I feel at home.
- More than anything, I'm in a state of disbelief. I just can't seem to wrap my mind around the fact that I'm really here. ... People smile at you and you can tell they mean it. It's a feeling of overall welcoming, and that feeling only intensified once we left the city and got to Wan Pen's. Out in the Thai countryside I don't see how anyone couldn't feel at home. Between the delicious food and the amazingly beautiful views, I've decided it's a place I have to return to some day.
- Thailand is about the same as last year: beautiful, full of nice people, a bit too warm, and overall fun. Thankfully, it doesn't seem to be nearly as hot as it was last year; more bearable and not so humid, which really is the murderous part. Really incredible to see how much Wan Pen's has changed in a year. Mr. Hey sure does some amazing work, and quickly. .. Overall, good to be back; I really like this country.
As you can see, we're all in love with Thailand; we've all had beautiful and exciting experiences -- and we've all handled what challenges Thailand has served up quite well. Few completely understand that this set of experiences is only a easily-handled transition to the ones coming their way in India. They are all moving through the sequence well, and I expect will be better prepared for the sometimes-overwhelming challenges India will serve up than they would be if we had flown straight into Calcutta from Seattle. It's a great group, and I am honored to be traveling with them (even if I do have to sometimes resort to what Ted calls my "scolding mom" persona to ensure vigilance and sensitivity to their surroundings :>)
Tuesday we return to Mae Sot for a day, then an all-day bus back to Bangkok, one more night at the Shanti, and then the flight to Calcutta, where we will be for just a night and a day before boarding our first Indian night train to Gaya. It may well not be until after our arrival in Gaya that I am able to write again, but I'm sure I'll have plenty to share again by then.
Best wishes to all back home; thanks as always for helping make this journey possible.
and much love,
Peg
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